Shimano RC810 Cykelsko Racer

The Shimano RC810 is the racing shoe for those who want the technology of the top-of-the-range model without having to buy the top-of-the-range model. It shares the two things that matter most on the bike with the Shimano S-PHYRE RC910: the same Dynalast 2.0 last and the same SPD-SLR pedal platform. Around these core elements, Shimano opts for slightly different solutions, and that makes a difference to the price.

The main difference lies in the sole and the heel. The RC810’s carbon midsole has a stiffness index of 10, compared to 12 on the RC910. In practice, this means that the RC810 sole still offers virtually no give when you stand on it but a touch more flexibility underfoot than the very stiffest models. Many cyclists actually find this more comfortable on rides lasting 4 hours or longer. Hollow channels run through that same sole to drain air and water, which you will notice on hot days and after rainfall. The heel is held in place by an external stabiliser with an extended midsole, rather than the carbon-fibre heel cup found on the top-of-the-range RC910 model.

So who is the RC810 road bike shoe for? For dedicated cyclists who compete and/or train hard, and who would rather spend their money on the bike than on the last few per cent of shoe performance. If you want the very best in heel retention, the stiffest sole and an upper that wraps around your foot from toe to heel, the RC910 is the shoe for you. If you are mainly looking for comfort on leisurely rides, the RC810 sole is still too stiff and you’d be better off looking at a model from a lower range.

Another bonus: You don’t need to replace your pedals. The sole accommodates any cleat with a 3-point attachment, so both SPD-SLR and your existing SPD-SL or Look Keo. Plus, the RC810 is a unisex model available in two widths: medium and wide. So you simply choose your size and width rather than a men’s or women’s version.

Shimano Dynalast 2.0

Shimano measured hundreds of real feet and designed a new last based on them. The result is a spacious forefoot, allowing your toes to spread out as they naturally do. This gives you a wider contact area on the pedal and, therefore, better balance and stability when you stand out of the saddle. Power transfer remains unaffected; you gain space without sacrificing stiffness.

Carbon midsole with hollow channels

The sole has a stiffness index of 10, so virtually all your power is transferred to the pedal, yet there is still just a little more flexibility than with the very stiffest racing soles. Hollow channels run through the carbon construction, allowing air in and water out. On a hot day, this keeps the sole of your foot cooler, and if you are riding through a rainshower, moisture will not linger in your shoe.

SPD-SLR pedal platform

Shimano’s new racing platform reduces the distance between the top of your cleat and the centre of the pedal axle back to 12.5 mm. The closer your foot is to the axle, the more direct the connection with your bike feels. The clip-in angle is 10.5 degrees instead of 15.5 on the SPD-SL, so you clip in faster without having to search for the right position.

Compatible with

• All cleats with a 3-point mounting system, the standard configuration for road bikes. This means you are not tied to a single brand.
• Shimano SPD-SLR pedals, such as the PD-R9300 (Dura-Ace) and the PD-R8200 (Ultegra), with a CL-SL100 (red, 0 degrees of play), CL-SL110 (yellow, 3 degrees) or CL-SL120 (blue, 1 degree).
• SPD-SL pedals such as the PD-R7000, PD-R550 and PD-RS500, with SM-SH10 (red), SM-SH11 (blue) or SM-SH12 (yellow). So you can simply keep your current pedals.
• Pedals from other brands that use a 3-point cleat, such as Look Keo, with the cleat specific to that system.
• Your own foot shape – the RC810 is available in a standard and a wide fit.

Not compatible with

• SPD pedals with a 2-point attachment – Shimano’s mountain bike system. The RC810 sole does not have these holes, so it is not compatible with most spinning bikes either, and you will need mountain bike shoes for that.
• Flat pedals without a clip-in system. The RC810 sole is made entirely of carbon and has no tread for standing on.
• An SPD-SLR cleat in an SPD-SL pedal, or vice versa. The RC810 shoe is compatible with both systems but the cleats and pedals are not interchangeable.

Not sure? Here’s how to check

Look at the underside of your current shoe: If there are 3 screw holes arranged in a triangle, you are using the 3-point system and the RC810 will fit your existing cleats. If you can only see 2 holes next to each other, you have an MTB shoe. You can tell which cleat you need by looking at your pedal: If it says "SPD-SLR", you will need a CL-SL100, CL-SL110 or CL-SL120. If it says "SPD-SL", you will need an SM-SH10, SM-SH11 or SM-SH12. To decide your width, put on your current shoe and feel whether your toes are pressing against the side or whether your forefoot feels numb after an hour. If so, choose a wide fit. To find your size, enter your measured foot length in millimetres above – not your trainers’ size.

Included as standard

• Shimano RC810 road bike shoes, one pair, left and right

Not included, but required or useful

• Cleats compatible with your pedals. If you ride SPD-SLR, choose CL-SL100, CL-SL110 or CL-SL120 from our range of cleats. If you ride SPD-SL, go for the Shimano SPD-SL cleats.
• If you want to switch to the new platform, you will also need SPD-SLR pedals. Take a look at our road bike pedals.
• An Allen key and a Torque wrench to tighten the cleats to 5 to 6 Nm; see our Allen and Torx keys and torque wrenches.
• Thin cycling socks, as these shoes have a snug fit and thick socks would take up the very space that Dynalast 2.0 gives you.
• Overshoes for cold rides. The channels in the sole allow air to escape, so this shoe is deliberately not waterproof.

How to fit your cleats to the RC810 road cycling shoes in 5 steps

You can fit the cleats yourself in about 15 minutes per pair. You will need an Allen key, a Torque wrench and cleats that fit your pedals, as these are not included.

1. Mark the ball of your foot: Stand barefoot and use a pen to draw a line on the side of your shoe, level with the thick bone beneath your big toe.
2. Place the cleat on the sole: Insert the bolts through the three holes in your cleat and tighten by hand a few turns, so that the cleat can still move.
3. Slide onto your mark: Align the cleat with the markings on the sole, and position the centre of the plate under your ball of the foot.
4. Tighten to 5 to 6 Nm: Tighten the three bolts evenly with your torque wrench, ensuring you stay within the 5 to 6 Nm range. Screwing into carbon requires care; stripped threads are not covered under warranty.
5. Go for a 15-minute ride: If you feel your knee pulling inwards or outwards, loosen the bolts slightly and adjust the position by a few millimetres. The markings on the sole show you exactly how much you have moved it.

Shimano’s assembly guide illustrates each step with diagrams, including the correct tightening torque.

• Once you have finished adjusting your cleats, make a note of where they are positioned in relation to the markings on the sole. If you replace your cleats later, you will be able to put them back in the correct position straight away, rather than having to search for the right spot again.
• Replace your cleats as soon as the tips are visibly worn down. Worn cleats create extra play, and you will feel this in your knees first.
• After a wet ride, briefly rinse the channels in the sole with lukewarm water to ensure no sand or salt remains inside.
• Never put these shoes in the washing machine. Wipe them down with a damp cloth and leave to dry at room temperature – never on the radiator, as this will cause the upper to warp.