Shimano S-PHYRE RC910 Cykelsko Racer

The Shimano S-PHYRE RC910 is Shimano’s top-of-the-range racing shoe and the successor to the RC903. It is designed for racing cyclists and fast touring cyclists who want to get the most out of every pedal stroke: a rock-hard carbon sole with a stiffness index of 12, a heel cup that keeps your foot firmly in place, and an upper that wraps around your foot from toe to instep.

The main difference from the RC903 isn’t in the stiffness, as that has remained the same. It is in the fit. The RC903 had a narrow toe box, and that is precisely the question we are asked most often: Will this shoe actually fit my wide foot, and does “wide” on the website really mean that I get the Wide version? Shimano has measured hundreds of feet and used those measurements to develop the Shimano Dynalast 2.0. The standard last of the RC910 is 3 mm wider at the toes than that of the RC903, and you can also choose between a narrow and a wide version. Thus, this model caters for a much wider range of foot shapes.

This is also why the RC910 is a unisex model. Whereas before you had to choose between the RC903 and the women-specific RC903 W, you can now simply choose your size and width. If you currently ride the Shimano S-PHYRE RC903 W and find you have extra space at the ball of your foot, the narrow fit of the RC910 is the right choice for you. A nice detail: While this narrow version is indeed narrower at the ball of the foot, it is actually 3 mm wider at the toes than the RC903 W. So, a narrow foot no longer automatically means cramped toes.

You don’t need to replace your pedals to use the RC910 road bike shoes. The sole is designed for the new SPD-SLR pedals but is also compatible with SPD-SL cleats, so you can ride on your current SPD-SL pedals today and switch to the new platform later. If you are looking for the same technology at a lower price, check out the Shimano RC810 road bike shoes. They also feature the Shimano Dynalast 2.0 and the same pedal platform, but have external heel stabilisers instead of the carbon-fibre heel cups.

Shimano Dynalast 2.0

Shimano measured hundreds of real feet and built a new last around them. The result is a forefoot with 7% more volume, allowing your toes to spread out as they naturally do. This gives you a wider contact area on the pedal and, therefore, greater balance and stability when you stand out of the saddle. Power transfer remains unaffected; you gain space without sacrificing stiffness.

Archsync arch support

A good fit doesn’t stop at width. Underneath the insole is a small riser measuring approximately 6 by 12 mm, positioned exactly where your arch is. The Mid riser comes as standard, and the taller High riser is included. If you have a high arch, simply lift the insole, swap the riser round and replace the insole. A foot that doesn’t collapse retains its power better, and you will notice this particularly in the second half of your ride.

SPD-SLR pedal platform

Shimano’s new racing platform reduces the distance between the top of your cleat and the centre of the pedal axle back to 12.5 mm. The closer your foot is to the axle, the more direct the connection with your bike feels. The clip-in angle is 10.5 degrees instead of 15.5 on the SPD-SL, so you clip in faster. And you have 16 mm of adjustment range forwards and backwards, compared to 12 mm on the RC903, allowing you to fine-tune your position more precisely.

Compatible with

• All cleats with a 3-point mounting system, the standard configuration for road bikes. This means you are not tied to a single brand.
• Shimano SPD-SLR pedals, such as the PD-R9300 (Dura-Ace) and the PD-R8200 (Ultegra), with CL-SL100 (red, 0 degrees of play), CL-SL110 (yellow, 3 degrees) or CL-SL120 (blue, 1 degree).
• SPD-SL pedals such as the PD-R7000, PD-R550 and PD-RS500, with SM-SH10 (red), SM-SH11 (blue) or SM-SH12 (yellow). So you can simply keep your current pedals.
• Pedals from other brands with a 3-point mounting system, such as Look Keo, Time and Favero Assioma, with the cleat specific to that system.
• Your own foot shape – the RC910 is available in narrow, medium and wide fits.

The fit compared to the RC903

All three versions of the RC910 are roomier than the RC903 they replace, and all three offer 7% more volume in the toe box. Find your own fit to see exactly how many millimetres of extra space you get.

These numbers have been provided by Shimano, measured on size 43. Each version is compared with the RC903 model it replaces, so if you stick with the width you are used to, you will always be better off. If you are deciding between two widths of the RC910, the wide version is 6 mm wider at the toes and 5 mm wider at the ball of the foot than the standard version, whilst the narrow version is 1 mm and 2 mm narrower respectively.

Not compatible with

• SPD pedals with a 2-point attachment, Shimano’s mountain bike system. The RC910 sole does not have these holes, so it will not fit on most spinning bikes either and you will need MTB shoes for that.
• Flat pedals without a clip-in system. The RC910 sole is made entirely of carbon and has no tread for standing on.
• An SPD-SLR cleat in an SPD-SL pedal, or vice versa. The RC910 shoe is compatible with both systems but the cleats and pedals are not interchangeable.

Not sure? Here’s how to check

Look at the underside of your current shoe: If there are 3 screw holes arranged in a triangle, you are using the 3-point system and the RC910 will fit your existing cleats. If you can only see 2 holes next to each other, you have an MTB shoe and should look in our range of MTB shoes. You can tell which cleat you need by checking your pedal: If it says “SPD-SLR”, you will need a CL-SL100, CL-SL110 or CL-SL120. If it says “SPD-SL”, you will need an SM-SH10, SM-SH11 or SM-SH12. To decide your width, put on your current shoe and feel whether your toes are pressing against the side (in which case you need a wide fit) or whether you have to tighten the fastening quite a bit to get grip (in which case you need a narrow fit). To find your size, enter your measured foot length in millimetres above, not your trainers’ size.

Included as standard

• Shimano S-PHYRE RC910 cycling shoes, one pair, left and right
• Insoles, with the “Mid”-height Archsync riser already fitted
• Archsync insoles in “High” height, not fitted, to swap in if you have high arches

Not included, but required or useful

• Cleats compatible with your pedals. If you ride SPD-SLR, choose CL-SL100, CL-SL110 or CL-SL120 from our cleats. If you ride SPD-SL, go for the Shimano SPD-SL cleats.
• If you want to switch to the new platform, you will also need SPD-SLR pedals. Take a look at our road bike pedals.
• An Allen key and a Torque wrench to tighten the cleats to 5 to 6 Nm; see our Allen and Torx keys and torque wrenches.
• Thin cycling socks, as these shoes have a snug fit and thick socks would take up the very space that Dynalast 2.0 gives you.
• Overshoes for cold rides. The upper is perforated for ventilation and is, therefore, not waterproof.

How to fit your cleats to the Shimano S-Phyre RC910 road cycling shoes in 5 steps

You can fit the cleats yourself in about 15 minutes per pair. You will need an Allen key, a Torque wrench and the cleats that fit your pedals, as these are not included.

1. Mark the ball of your foot: Stand barefoot and use a pen to draw a line on the side of your shoe, level with the thick bone beneath your big toe.
2. Place the cleat on the sole: Insert the bolts through the three holes in your cleat and tighten by hand a few turns, so that the cleat can still move.
3. Slide onto your mark: Align the cleat with the markings on the sole. With an SPD-SLR cleat, you have 16 mm of play forwards and backwards and 4 mm to the left and right.
4. Tighten to 5 to 6 Nm: Tighten the three bolts evenly with your torque wrench, ensuring you stay within the 5 to 6 Nm range. Screwing into carbon requires care; stripped threads are not covered under warranty.
5. Go for a 15-minute ride: If you feel your knee pulling inwards or outwards, loosen the bolts slightly and adjust the position by a few millimetres. The markings on the sole show you exactly how much you have adjusted it.

Shimano’s assembly guide illustrates each step with diagrams. If you are also changing your Archsync riser, do so before your first ride – a different arch support changes your foot position, and you will want to fine-tune your cleats afterwards.

• If, after a few long rides, you notice that your arch is collapsing or, conversely, pressing against the sole, swap the Archsync insert. The “Mid” size is fitted as standard, the “High” size is included, and you don’t need any tools to do it.
• Once you have adjusted your cleats, make a note of where they are positioned in relation to the markings on the sole. If you replace your cleats later on, you will be able to put them back in the correct position straight away, rather than having to search for the right spot again.
• Replace your cleats as soon as the tips are visibly worn down. Worn cleats create extra play, and you will feel this in your knees first.
• Never put these shoes in the washing machine. Wipe them down with a damp cloth and leave to dry at room temperature – never on the radiator, as this will cause the upper to warp.